Latest reviews in Afghanistan

Although a bit removed from the security hotspots such as Wazir Akbar Khan or Pashtunistan Sq this can be the fieriest after-hours joint in town when the vibe is right. Good food based on sound French cooking, it's a mystery how the bar and kitchen are so well supplied. Opening times are mid morning to when the party dies down although as with any ex-pat venue in Kabul it may stay closed if temperatures are at flambée-point in the city. (duncandj, 19-01-2011) 4

The hotel and restaurant are a bit bizarre. Because it's a 5* hotel the security is nuts, but once inside it really is just a big version of every other half decent guesthouse in Kabul. The room I stated in was huge with 2 double beds and an enormous en-suite but the quality of the room, furnishings, and food was mediocre at best. Stay here if you're in Kabul for the day, stay somewhere else with more character if you're there longer! (iainfaulds, 27-12-2010) 2

Reasonably decent Italian fare run by Serb/Croat ladies. Fresh bread baked on-site, which is pretty good. The ladies can occasionally be a bit grumpy, but it is one of the most upscale expat restaurant retreats in Kabul, including the Western bevvies. (Jagreenwoodjr, 13-04-2010) 4

Great food, especially considering its location. Sometimes inconsistent due to quality of the local ingredients, but otherwise outstanding. "Western" beverages on offer. (Jagreenwoodjr, 11-04-2010) 4

Delivers from several expat restaurants. Quite handy during security lockdowns. (Jagreenwoodjr, 11-04-2010) 3

Comment: We think we know this multi-state country bordering on Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikstan, the People’s Republic of China and Pakistan. Osama bin Laden with his al-Qaida movement, the Taliban, the American and ISAF (International Security Assistance Force) troops are all consistently covered in the media. Overwhelmingly so! We were all dismayed at the destruction of the Buddhas at Bamiyan by religious fanatics. We cannot understand the Taliban’s antiquated ban on images, music and sport, and are astonished at the educational and professional restrictions imposed on women. At the moment we’re distraught about hostage taking, taking place there. About the war that won’t end. Could it be that this opium that the media thrives on has left us numb to it all? Theoretically we know very little about this vast land of almost 652 225 square kilometres made up of predominantly arid and mountainous terrain, with most areas inaccessible. The country’s railway track only spans a distance of 24,6 kilometres and its roads 21 000 kilometres, of which only 13,3 per cent are tarred. We know nothing about the 28 766 000 or so proud Afghan population, of which 40 per cent are of the Pasha tribe, 30 per cent are Tajik of Persian origin, and the rest Hazaras, Uzbeks and Baluch. We know nothing about Dari, the official language, or about Pasha the Pashton language. Nothing about the 57 different languages and about the somewhat 200 dialects! We know nothing about Afghan history, or about the strips of land that were once part of ancient Persia. Nor about the much later empire of Alexander the Great! We know nothing about the time it was under British colonialism, nothing about the wars of independence fought by this freedom loving nation. We know little about the American, Pakistani and Saudi representatives’ war with the Soviets, which lasted all of ten years. Nor do we know about mining operations that have been going on in wide areas of the country. What we do perhaps know is that 99 per cent of the Afghan people are Muslim, most of them Hanafite Sunis, with Imamite Shiites in the minority. What we also may know is that the Afghan people are deeply religious and do not take bursting into their homes lightly. Hopefully we will become aware of the fact that this proud and likeable nation is exceptionally hospitable and has never felt comfortable with any domination from the top, always having felt allegiance to its clans only… and to its vast country. There is something else that we know very little of and that is a shame: Afghanistan prides itself in hosting one of the world’s oldest horse riding sports. They call it Buskashi and it’s the precursor of Polo as it were. There is no sport that beats this one in terms of excitement. And at the same time it brings out the mentality of the Afghan people. It’s a kind of group sport and is therefore in line with their ‘clan’ way of thinking. It is a type of martial art and hence requires untold strength and masculinity. Loosely translated Buskashi means “pull pull”. It probably has its origins in Mongolia and is in keeping with a 5 000 year old tradition. It is played in open sandy areas everywhere in Afghanistan, currently more so in the north. The country’s grandiose mountains serve as a backdrop, not to mention the spectators, mainly men mind you. And they all want to be there, from the curious little mite, to the professional elderly gentleman. The rules are simple and without any frills. Two teams or two individuals approach one another in the ‘arena’. From his horse, the player reaches for a dead goat or calf on the ground. The aim is to circle the ‘arena’ on horseback as widely as possible, then deposit the trophy i.e. the carcass inside a demarcated chalk circle. His opponents will try to stop him – with their hands, their feet and even whips. And these horsemen known as “Chop Andozu” are definitely a force to be reckoned with. The chalk circle is demarcated by a revered patriarch at the beginning of the event. They sure know how to give credit where credit is due! Now you can see why horses are so important to this sport. They say a good Buskashi horse can cost between 40 000 and 50 000 US dollars. This could of course be an exaggeration going way back when. The fact of the matter is that his horse is more important to the rider than his own life. As a point of interest, the country’s currency has horses as the theme on its 500 Afghani banknote. Incidentally, they are thoroughbreds. Good horses are introduced into the sport caringly. They are groomed daily. Even young boys wanting to grow into a Buskashi career with their young foals get involved here. Any real Afghan wants to be a champion at some time or other. That is why they train and train, day in and day out. But when they train it’s with stuffed balls. Goats and calves are for special occasions only. To be able to watch the fifty or so horse riders fight their way into the ‘arena’ some day would be a dream come true. The ‘performances’ take place from January until the end of March. I can just imagine the “Chop Andozu” skilfully blocking off their opponents with unexpected tactical moves, momentarily warding off their horses. I can already hear the sound of the thoroughbreds snorting, the cries of the horsemen billowing through the crisp air, while the sweat comes pouring down and the sunlight catches the dust kicked up by the horses. I’d love to be there when the winner collects his prize money, and accepts the victory cloak… the „Karsai“. No, you’re not mistaken… recently they named the trophy after the Afhan president. But probably not everywhere in the country and not irrevocably! No doubt Buskashi will always remain the pride of the Afghan people, their most important pass time, when the war is finally over. I’ve learnt quite a bit about Buskashi from Afghans themselves. In Germany there are nearly 90 000 people of Afghan decent, more than in any other European country. And they all talk fondly about this amazing game. Some of my knowledge about this people comes from Jawid Pankaj in Herat, in the northwest of Afghanistan, with whom I’ve engaged in some amazing correspondence. The idea being to finish my new book, which I just can’t seem to get finished! He is twenty years old, lost his oldest brother to the war against the Russians, the second oldest in the Taliban war, and works in a bakery. He’s told me that becoming a “Chop Andozu” Buskashi horse rider isn’t really his dream. What he really wants to do, is to become involved in doing business with Germany later on. His family has a long tradition in this line of work. Afghanistan hasn’t always been at war! (Lenz, 13-05-2008) 5