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I’m not sure if this qualifies as a Tesco Express with petrol station attached, or a petrol station with a Tesco Express: even numbers seemed to be using each.

It’s one of the larger Tesco express stores - about half the size of the nearby Sainsbury’s - so although not quite up to having all the choice you might want for a weekly shop, it’s not far off, and perfect for a quick shop - maybe after filling up with petrol…

Epping is the eastern terminus of the Central Underground Line of London Transport, and is situated outside the M25. It is the second-most northerly station on the underground network (after Chesham).

History

The line from Loughton to Ongar via Epping was opened in 1865 as an extension of the Eastern Counties Railway line from London Liverpool Street to Loughton. For most of its life it was a normal suburban railway branch, but was included in post-war plans to extend to Central Line beyond Leytonstone. The line from Loughton to Epping was incorporated into London Transport and electrified in 1949. The line beyond to Ongar was thereafter operated as a shuttle - by steam until 1957, and electric until its closure in 1994. Since then Epping has been the true eastern terminus of the line.

The station

The station preserves its original buildings on the main platform, as well as an attractive Great Eastern Railway footbridge across to platform 2. There is a ticket office, a large 500-space car park, and a bus stop for services to Harlow and Chipping Ongar.

The station is in zone 6, and normally enjoys an off-peak 10-minute frequency of trains to West Ruislip - one of the longest journeys possible on the Underground system, nearly 35 miles away on the other side of the capital.

The Epping Ongar Railway is a small heritage line which runs between the Essex town of Chipping Ongar (also known as just Ongar) to the village of Coopersale just outside Epping. For much of the post-war period, the line was well known as being a curiosity - part of the London underground system, yet running through an entirely rural area!

A relative newcomer to the preservation scene, it is still at a fairly early stage in its life (and at the time of writing there are no train services as extensive track repairs are under way).

History

The line was opened in 1865 as an extension of the Eastern Counties Railway line from London Liverpool Street to Loughton. Operated as a steam line for most of its life, in the 1940s plans were drawn up to incorporate the line into the new extension to the Central Line of London Underground.

Electric underground trains reached Laughton in 1948 and Epping in 1949. The line from Epping to Ongar, with intermediate stations at North Weald and Blake’s Hall was incorporated into the London Underground network, but initially run by a steam shuttle from Epping. The line was finally electrified in 1957, albeit cheaply, so that only short trains could run. The service thereafter continued to be operated as a shuttle from Epping.

Declining passenger usage caused the service to be reduced to peak hours only in 1976, and Blake Hall station closed in 1981. An improved all-day service was implemented to attempt to attract custom, but this failed and the line became one of the few sections of the underground network to close completely in modern times, in 1994.

The line was then purchased by a private company, in order to run a service, but this did not materialise. A volunteer group was formed to help move things forward, and in 2004 a Sunday shuttle service was operated between Ongar and North Weald. Trains can run a little further to Coopersale, but there is no station there.

The line now

The main headquarters is at Ongar station, where a fairly ramshackle selection of railway vehicles is located, as well as a collection of London buses. The station also has a short section of broad gauge (5ft) track and two Finnish locomotives and carriages.

The station building has a small cafe and shop selling souvenirs, open on some Sundays, but since 2008 the line has been closed for some major engineering works, scheduled for completion in 2010. They nevertheless still have open days when visitors can wander around Ongar station, and the cafe and shop are staffed by friendly and enthusiastic volunteers.

Plans are under way to completely refurbish the station, which at present has a garden, oddly decorated with mannequins and ephemera with a 'goth’ and science fiction theme.

The station has a small car parking area, and toilets.

A small branch of the ubiquitous chemist chain slap bang in the middle of Rye’s historic High Street.

They have a fair range of pharmaceuticals and toiletries, but small ranges of photographic and electricals. Very friendly staff, though - really helpful.

A small photographic shop, selling a wide range of photographic supplies. It’s not as cheap as larger chains, but what you get here is personal service from the friendly and helpful owner - perfect for people who don’t like being talked down to in jargon!

St Martin’s is a historic Norman church in the pretty little town of Chipping Ongar, and is situated just off the High Street.

The church was built just after the Norman conquest, around 1080. The original nave and chancel still survive, and the flint walls incorporate reused Roman bricks and tiles - clearly visible from the outside. The church was extended in Victorian times, but still retains its 15th century steeple, complete with 17th century clock.

Still, outside, on the north wall of the sanctuary is a small recess (now with a door), with a very small window on the inside. This was originally an anchorite cell - where a hermit could take part in the service without being seen or coming into contact with the parishioners.

Inside, the atmosphere in the nave is dark, thanks to the low, heavy 14th century roof, and the prolific amount of Victorian stained glass. The porch, south aisle and nave arcade are also Victorian, and you have to look hard to find the mediaeval features: narrow, round-headed Norman windows in the north wall, above a stoup for Holy Water.

The chancel arch was rebuilt around 1350, but some Norman windows also survive in the chancel, alongside 14th and 16th century insertions, and some of the 'scissor’ roof beams are also thought to be Norman. The East window is a nice Decorated Gothic example from about 1300.

The fittings include a 16th century pulpit, a 15th century font and, on the south wall of the chancel, a memorial to Sara Mitford (d. 1776) by the noted English sculptor Joseph Nollekens. Under the south side of the altar is another memorial, to Jane Pallavicini, cousin of Oliver Cromwell (whose father fought on the Royalist side).

Finally, one of the Victorian windows depicts David Livingstone - who lived in Chipping Ongar in 1838-40 to undertake probationary year at the London Missionary Society school.

Also known as “Greensted church”, this unassuming spot is both rustic and charming - you might almost expect Hansel and Gretel to walk in at any moment - but is also historically very important. The nave walls are built of upright, halved wooden logs - for here is Europe’s oldest wooden building still standing, and the oldest wooden church in the world.

History

The history of the site dates back around 1300 years: the land of the East Saxons - now Essex - was evangelised By Saint Cedd in 654AD, who was based at nearby Bradwell on the Essex coast. Remains have been found under the present church of a wooden building dating from the late sixth or seventh century, which may have been a sanctuary used by the early missionaries. The dedication to St Andrew also suggests a Celtic foundation.

The present nave was erected around 1060AD; the logs have been dated by dendrochronology (ie by tree-rings) to around this period. It was originally dated to some 200 years earlier, but even with this date its status as Europe’s oldest standing wooden building and the world’s oldest wooden church remains.

The original church was probably thatched, and without windows. The Normans built a chancel, although all that remains now are the footings and a pillar piscina. The present brick chancel was erected around 1500, and at the same time the handsome chancel arch inserted and roofs rebuilt and tiled.

The date of the tower is uncertain, but it may have been added in the 17th century - one of the bells is dated 1618. The east wall of the chancel was rebuilt in the Victorian period and the roof and walls also repaired.

An interesting piece of history is that some of the Tolpuddle Martyrs, after they were pardoned, were settled in Greensted on their return, and one of them, James Brine, was married here in 1839.

The church

The church now is about as picturesque as it is possible to get: the porch leads straight into the Saxon nave, passing a 12th century Crusader tomb just outside on your right. It is the UK’s only log church.

Inside, the nave is incredibly dark, despite the insertion of dormer windows. The nave still has its box pews. The chancel is somewhat brighter, and whitewashed.

The church has some interesting fittings: the pulpit was donated in 1698 by Alexander Cleeve, and in the chancel are the Norman piscina and a memorial to Jone Wood, dated 1585. The eagle lectern is an impressive bit of Victoriana. Most of the glass is also Victorian, save a small but well preserved piece of 15th century glass in the quatrefoil window in the west wall.

The rear of the church has all sorts of items for sale to help fundraising, from the usual postcards and guides to a wide selection of country jams and other sweet treats.

Practicalities

The directions given the the review by 'the xyone’ are spot on - the walk should take 15-20 minutes from Chipping Ongar. If you drive there, there is parking for a dozen cars, including a space for disabled visitors, although the narrowness of the aisle in the church will probably make it difficult to use a wheelchair.

Anyone going to Ongar to see a traditional stone fortress is going to be sorely disappointed: not only are there no stone ramparts, but there may never have been any.

However, from an historian’s point of view, this is almost a textbook 'Motte and bailey’ castle of the type erected in their hundreds by the Normans after the Conquest in 1066.

The motte was a high earth mound on which a wooden fortress was built, often later replaced by stone, but it is not known if this happened here; the bailey was a defended outer enclosure, often with ramparts and a wooden fence, again often replaced in time with stone.

At Chipping Ongar, the castle ramparts also extended to encircle the little Norman town. It was built at some point in the late 11th or early 12th centuries, supposedly by Richard de Lucy, a nobleman who held the manor in the mid 12th century.

The keep was pulled down in 1539 and a brick building erected in its place by the owner William Morice, in which Elizabeth I was entertained in 1579. This building was itself pulled down in the 18th century.

But both motte and the remains of the bailey survive here - including substantial parts of the moat - as well as a small part of the town enclosure. The motte in particular is still almost at its full height.

The site is now heavily wooded, and the bailey contains modern houses and is in private ownership, but a footpath has been constructed around the whole area. (You’ll get a better view in winter when the trees have shed their leaves). You can see the motte, ramparts, dithces and, at various points, the moats - these still have water and in some parts have been incorporated into gardens.

The path skirts fields and is fairly uneven, with stiles and kissing gates, so is not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs, but otherwise makes for an undemanding historical walk of 10-15 minutes or so, with some good views over the surrounding countryside.

A medium-sized Sainsbury’s, with a decent sized car park just off the High Street of this pretty little Essex town.

It’s actually a bit deceptive - I was actually expecting a larger store when I went it, but it has everything you’d need for a weekly shop. (There’s no petrol station at this branch.)

Udimore is one of those small English villages strung out along a road, with no real centre, which is so easy to drive through. But just off the busy B2089 is the lovely church of St Mary, situated in an idyllic spot next to a farm and to a duck pond (which actually had a family of ducks on it when I visited).

Udimore is recorded in the Domesday Book, and there was an important lodge here in mediaeval times, in which both Edward I and Edward III stayed - Edwards III’s Queen, Eleanor, is said to have watched the English fleet from Udimore before the Battle of Winchelsea (against a Castilian fleet) on 29 August 1350.

Historically, the church nave was originally 12th century Norman, to which a south aisle was added around 1200, with the chancel added slightly later and the tower slightly later still, around 1230. The aisle was lost at some later period and the whole church was heavily restored in 1896.

From the outside, the church looks impressively large: the tower is robust and squat, and barely higher than the tall nave and chancel roofs. The walls on both north and south sides of the nave betray a series of alterations, with blocked arches abounding.

On entering the church, it is clear that it once had a south aisle of three bays, in the Early English Gothic style, on round columns with stiff-leaf capitals, dating from the very beginning of the 13th century: these are best preserved in the central bay, which now forms the south 'porch’, although there is no internal door or wall.

It is not clear when the aisle was demolished, but may have been around the time of the Black Death. The porch was added during the 19th century, using a 15th century door, and the north wall nave lancets are also 19th century. The south nave windows are 15th century, although heavily restored, and probably came from the original south aisle wall.

The chancel is entered through a beautifully proportioned (and very pointed) arch, and now we find ourselves firmly in the 13th century. The chancel is indeed textbook Early English Gothic: there are lancets in the north and south walls, and a triple lancet composition at the east end.

The westernmost lancet on the south wall was originally lower, to allow people outside the church to watch the mass: the sill was raised in line with the others in Victorian times - the alteration is clearly visible on the outside.

The church has some interesting fittings: in the chancel is an interesting wooden font, covered in plaster to make it look like stone: an edict at the Reformation forbade the use of wooden vessels, and this is an unusually late example (early 18th century) of a stone 'forgery’.

The Jacobean period is represented by a fine bench seat in the porch, and there is a particularly grand coat of arms of George III, erected by two churchwardens in 1772.

Back outside, the churchyard contains some interesting graves, including a number of anthropomorphic 'bodystones’.