I'm kaska from Edinburgh. I've been Qyping since 11-11-2007
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Arthurs Seat - Edinburgh
Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland EH8 8EQ
13-11-2007
Guttied Haddie - Arthur's Seat
A friend of mine thought this title refered to a drunk Scots fishwife! In fact it's the name of the distinctive scree/cliff feature on the South side of Arthur's Seat that looks exactly like a gutted haddock.
The attraction of the Gutted Haddie is that it's a nice scramble for those of you that fancy a more challenging hill climb. It's not for the unfit, but seasoned cliff climbers would say it's for toddlers.
You can warm up to the climb by walking up the Radical Road; this is the walk that follows the base of the distinctive red sandstone cliffs of Arthur's Seat.
Geology experts will understand the detail of these dramatic formations, but basically these cliffs are made of cooled magma; molten rock that forms in deep chambers in the earth and is rarely exposed above ground into crystalised rock. The heat of this magma distorted the pre exisitng ancient sea bed that covered Lothian a million or so years ago.
As you get to the top of the path the cliffs get lower, there's a dip into a valley and straight ahead of you, across the small dip, is the rise into the Guttied Haddie.
It involves a steep, almost vertical hill climb that trails up the right hand side of the scree slope. To your left you can now see a gouge in the cliffs leading up to the top of Arthur's Seat. Traverse along the slightly tricky, sandy bit that runs along the top of the scree slope to the beginning of the scramble and now you should be looking up towards the top of Arthur's Seat.
How you scramble up this part is entirely up to you, but if you're not that experienced, take your time, especially towards the top of the narrow gouge, and plan each move. At the top of this climb there's an easy option: you can follow the hill round to the right and take the easy trail to the top, or you can carry on up the cliff climb above.
This is like a series of giant steps. The rock is lovely, not crumbly, nice and firm with plenty of ledges.
Now you should be at the top where you're free to enjoy the view, with the added frisson of accomplishment having braved the challenge of the Gutted Haddie!
Triduana's Chapel - Edinburgh
restalrig, Edinburgh, Scotland EH7 6LF
12-11-2007
This semi-subterranean, hexagonal chapel is dedicated to the Celtic Saint, Triduana.
One of the first things you'll notice as you unlock the door and descend into the chapel is its whispery echo, inviting quiet contemplation.
Triduana was a Christian Nun from Constantinople who moved to Scotland around 600 AD. She attracted the attention of a local Pictish chief, or King, called Nechtan. Nechtan pursued Triduana and asked for her hand in marriage. Insulted at his insensitivity to her chosen spiritual path she asked his messengers 'What is it about me that causes him to offend me?' Nechtan answered 'The transcendental beauty of your blue eyes'. Triduana then took out her eyes, placed them on a thorn bush and sent the message to Nechtan 'Here is what you want, take these eyes'.
It's quite a gruesome story, but during this period of history the deeds of saints were often extreme, serving as testament to their faith. The story is likely to be legend though (evidenced by the fact that similar stories appear in much earlier religious texts). Chapels to Triduana can be found throughout Scotland, one of the earliest on Papa Westray in the Orkney Isles.
You'll notice a wooden carving of Triduana in the chapel alcove, and on the right of the alcove a gravestone dedicated to Lady Lestalrig (the source of the title of the former village of Restalrig). The architecture is unusual; the chapel is hexagonal and you'll notice some lovely floral carvings on the pillars that interlace up to the vaulted ceiling.
If you're feeling aventurous, pull back the stone slab that covers the well and pat a few droplets on your eyes - it's not polluted as far as I know, I drank half a cup and suffered no ill effects. The well has been visited for centuries and is reputed to cure ailments and diseases of the eyes.
The chapel is protected by Historic Scotland so you have to contact the keepers of the chapel for the key:
Arrange access to St Triduana's Chapel Mon - Fri, 9am to 5pm by contacting St Margaret’s Parish Church, Restalrig, on 0131 554 7400
Portobello Baths - Portobello
57 The Promenade, Edinburgh, Scotland EH15 2BS
12-11-2007
Portobello Turkish Steam Rooms
All that's missing at Portobello’s Turkish Baths is a glass of mint tea and Turkish Delight while you purify your pores.
If you're new to the Turkish Bath experience, I recommend you acclimatise yourself for twenty minutes or so in the tepid room that forms the centre of the Turkish steam room, where terracotta coloured stone walls rise up to a domed ceiling with little blue skylights in the shapes of stars.
When you feel up to it go into the hot steam room through the glass doors, drape yourself harem style on the white ceramic tile bench and breathe. Five minutes is enough if you're new to this, and now, if you're feeling brave, go back into the main tepid room and jump into the cold plunge pool.
As an aficionado of the Turkish steam experience, I feel the plunge pool isn't always cold enough here. If you agree, pop through to the shower room on the other side and run the shower till it's freezing. Lovely.
The whole idea of steam rooms is to sweat out your impurities and improve the circulation - hence the hot and cold. The pay-off to this mildly masochistic pursuit is that afterwards you look as if you've been ski-ing in the Alps. It's good for just before a romantic date, or for the evening before an interview, as it relaxes you.
There are also mid-temperature rooms, most ideal for lying around reading the Sunday papers. The one criticism I'd have is the changing facilities. Too hectic.
Remember to take a big bottle of water and don't do this on a bad hangover, you'll probably faint.
Portobello Swim Centre - Tel: 0131 669 6888
Dean Village - Edinburgh
Eton Terrace, Edinburgh, Scotland EH4 1PJ
11-11-2007
Dean Village would be pretty much my first choice for those long, mildly hungover Sundays where what's required is a soothing walk for the jangly nerves!
Simply getting to Dean Village is an experience in itself; it's a lush and leafy river walk with quirky Victorian follies and statues along the way.
Getting there's easy - from Stockbridge near Edinburgh's New Town you follow the river along Saunders Street and arrive at the entrance gateway (always open day or night). You walk for about half a mile enjoying the river views and graceful trees on either side of the river valley. Then you arrive at a stone bridge - and now you're in Dean Village. Cross the river via the stone bridge and if you like, look for the arrow carved into the bridge wall-top on your left, it was carved more than a century ago and marks the spot where kids used to jump into the river. There's a deep pool called Witches Cauldron below.
At the other side of the bridge turn left into the cobbled street and left again into the entrance to Well's Court. These lovely red sandstone buildings were designed by architect Sydney Mitchell, commissioned by philanthropist J R Findlay and were built around 1885. The clock tower and former church hall (now architect's offices) reflect Mitchell's ideal of community housing. He believed that communal housing areas needed places for people to gather together. The church hall hosted a wide variety of meetings and religious services reflecting the diversity of tenents' beliefs.
Wander through the court to the river's edge and enjoy a tranquil moment on the bench overlooking the river and imagine yourself living in one of the flats above with their little lead-cased windows (not as expensive as you might imagine - to rent at least!). Across the river there's a delighful row of yellow painted houses, which look like they're straight out of Hansel and Gretel. They're the real thing and date back to the 17th Century - the buildings further along are contemporary copies, but sensitively designed.
There's so much history in this compact and lovely village nestling on the banks of Dean Valley- too much to go into here. If you're feeling in the mood, the National Gallery of Scotland is a fifteen minute walk continuing along the river.
Cammo Estate - Edinburgh
Cammo Road, Edinburgh, Scotland EH10 6JF
12-11-2007
The Cammo Estate.
I’ve met very few people that are aware of the odd tale of Edinburgh’s Cammo Estate. Cammo House existed for hundreds of years until its almost complete destruction in 1975.
(Further details of this story of a multi million pound fortune abandoned to nature by an eccentric recluse can be found in the National Library of Scotland on George the Fourth Bridge)
Creative writers and filmmakers out there will be inspired by Cammo. It requires imagination, because fragments are all that remain of a formerly glamorous country mansion. Aside from all the history though, you can simply enjoy a walk in the fresh air. There are some lovely trees (including Edinburgh’s oldest Ash Tree) and everywhere you go you’ll discover intriguing features, such as the former horse stables, a walled garden and a water tower built in the style of a folly.
Getting to Cammo is fairly straightforward; Take a bus from the West End of Princess Street along Queensferry Road. Get off at Barnton Junction, carry along Queensferry Road and turn left into Cammo Road. The road leads to a path that takes you into the estate.
Cammo House was built by John Menzies in 1693. Each subsequent owner made additions, such as the re-designed grounds and the water canal outside the remains of the house (possibly designed by Robert Adams)
Cammo is now almost completely reclaimed by nature. An organisation called the Friends of Cammo would like to see the estate restored to its former glory, architects and city planners are still debating its future..
- Edinburgh 5 reviews
- Portobello, Edinburgh 1 review