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Wheeler's Oyster Bar - Whitstable

8 High Street, Whitstable, Kent CT5 1BQ

07-03-2011

Went here recently again after 21 years since my last visit. There is no doubting the inspired brilliance of this Kentish gem. It's almost self-consciously quirky and bohemian, with its salmon-pink façade and loopy hand-painted sign saying "ALL SEA FOODS". But it's been here for 150 years, which is no mean feat. How can I possibly find words to do justice to this place of genius, this haven of of the hungry, this glorious gift to the fish fanatic? It's a tiny little place on the High Street, with a counter in the front, bursting with crab meat (red and white), cockles, prawns, lobsters and mussels, seating about four squashed people or three with comfort. In the back there are four tables, and Delia will look after you. You can get 10 or 12 people in there. Being unlicensed, the drinks policy is strictly Fentiman's (the entire range) or BYO, and no corkage! So you can pair the fish with the best wine you've got, or you can go over the road to the offie and get yourself a bottle or four. And what to say of the food? The Whitstable natives are huge, plump, luscious, pure hedonism - half a dozen is an obligation. You'll probably wait a while for your starter, but it's worth it. There'll be mackerel, scallops or crab cake, nicely garnished with something light and green, maybe a small deep-fried squid ring or two, and something sharper like beetroot or horseradish to cut through the oil or fattiness. The mains are monkfish, john dory, bass, bream - whatever's going - with spinach, salsify, or potatoes, and other carefully calibrated accompaniments like artichokes or mushrooms. Wheeler's is a little slow, a little eccentric, a little unusual, but it's like nothing else - it makes you feel like you've arrived somewhere, and for an hour or two, or more, that there is nowhere else on earth worth being in. I am certainly not waiting another twenty years to go again.

wmstroud I too have been here and concur with this excellent review

ricard67 Hello! Looks like Wayne M-S! Good to see you here old chap.

Cheyne Walk Brasserie - Chelsea

50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, London SW3 5LR

07-03-2011

This delightfully decorated, spacious and informal neighbourhood restaurant offers confidently-prepared French regional classics. A large open grill in the middle periodically produces acrid smoke from burning rosemary, to flavour their famous Pyrenean lamb cutlets. However this is infrequent enough to be tolerable and should be regarded as part of the experience. Diners are mostly affluent, well-dressed locals. Service is a bit random, with different individuals whose purpose is unclear appearing at your table regularly. The wine list is almost exclusively French and on the expensive side at the sub-£50 price point (300% mark-ups) - this is deeply annoying and exploitative. But the higher end does offer some enticing bottles, which should nicely complement the splendid grilled meats (a perfectly grilled rib of beef on the bone for two is a steal at £56). Good fun.

Roussillon - Chelsea

16 St Barnabas Street, Chelsea, London SW1W 8PE

07-03-2011

There's no denying that the cooking displays serious technical skill, deep knowledge of ingredients, and intelligence in combining flavours and textures, but there's an absence of energy and daring here that makes Roussillon fall short of the mark of real passion and intensity. The menu is impeccably structured and there's no doubting the quality of the fundamental ingredients, the kitchen's high standards and the elegance of the presentation. The French-dominated wine list is also very impressive, especially on south-western regional wines. This is a quiet, discreet, elegant restaurant that displays moments of real inspiration. It maybe just lacks that extra element of inspiration that would make it truly memorable.

Galvin La Chapelle - City of London

35 Spital Square, London E1 6DY

07-03-2011

The interior is certainly striking but it might be too gloomy and cavernous for some tastes. The raised platform is too dark for my taste - I like to see the colours on my plate. The high ceilings are a metaphor for equally high aspirations: technical excellence, sensual textures, and delicate and subtle flavour combinations, built on the French culinary tradition (think truffles, caviar, cream, foie gras...) The French-dominated wine list is very comprehensive and surprisingly for a restaurant of this level, very reasonably priced.

Tayyabs - Whitechapel

83-89 Fieldgate St., Tower Hamlets, London E1 1JU

14-03-2010 (updated on 07-03-2011)

Tayyabs continues to deliver the most ridiculously pleasurable, rustic, straight-to-the point Pakistani dining experience. Totally chaotic and urgent (queues of drooling punters practically snaking down the street), this is all about the lamb and the mutton. The dishes are beautifully spiced and flavoured, practically dancing on your plate with complex, hypnotic aromas and perfectly balanced spiciness. The service is abysmal - they rush you to finish so they can replace you with new diners - but not unfriendly, and diners sit elbow-to-elbow, cramped liked anchovies in a jar. You also come out smelling of oil and chilli, and all your clothes will need washing. Still, a classic, absurdly cheap, and one of London's great experiences.

The Harwood Arms - Fulham

27 Walham Grove, Fulham, London SW6 1QR

07-03-2011

More than just a contender for the best gastropub in London. The locals are very lucky to have this establishment. Regrettably for most mortals, the locals are primarily of the hooray henry horsey variety, but not needlessly uncivil or boorish. Being a gastropub (an unfortunate, but admittedly convenient expression), the Harwood Arms is informal and slightly chaotic, but there is no doubting the brilliance of the food and the sheer audacious inspiration of its menu. In autumn, for example, there is a dominance of game - pheasant, hare, wood pigeon, rabbit, grouse, venison - and year-round you can eat huge Herefordshire snails or delicious Dorset crab or smoked eels. The wine list is refreshingly broad and balanced, and very reasonably priced - such a relief from the constantly abusive mark-ups you get in most other restaurants in Central or West London. This is a damn fine place to eat, no question.

Bob Bob Ricard - Soho

1 Upper James Street, Soho, London W1F 9DF

07-03-2011

Why so many food bloggers and (some) critics think this restaurant is any good is totally beyond me. This is the most preposterous, stupidly expensive pile of pretentious nonsense in the whole of London. There's no doubting the effort that has gone into the hilarious décor, reminiscent of the Orient Express in the 1930s, and the attention to detail in all the fittings, and the comfort and privacy of the booths. But the food is so gut-wrenchingly bad, pointless and random, and so outrageously expensive for what it is, served by sneering, half-witted waiters, that this place should be closed for offences to basic decency. I am baffled, just baffled, that this moronic establishment is popular and well-regarded.

Pizza Metro Pizza - Clapham

64 Battersea Rise, Clapham, London SW11 1EQ

07-03-2011

You can hardly fault Pizza Metro on its pizzas. The concept of selling pizza by the metre is delightful. They are presented on high rectangular trays (which frustratingly sit squarely in front of people's faces so you can't see those sitting opposite you) and are made quickly in proper pizza ovens, and topped with excellent fresh ingredients like ricotta or spicy sausage or rocket. All their pizzas are good, and quality is consistent year after year. Staff are really friendly and enthusiastic. Starters are less accomplished, if not downright poor, and the wine list is completely forgettable. But Pizza Metro has atmosphere (always full) and charm, and is easily one of the best independent neighbourhood pizza places in London.

Bistro Bruno Loubet - Clerkenwell

86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5RJ

07-03-2011

Energetic, trendy, buzzing restaurant serving well-made and colourful French bistro-style dishes. They do a rather dainty salmon tartare, and put interesting cuts such as oxtail and lamb neck to good use. It's not fabulous, and the service is slightly stressed and chaotic, but there's a good atmosphere and you'll have a decent meal.

Polpo - Soho

41 Beak Street, Soho, London W1F 9SB

07-03-2011

Irritating no-reservations policy, made up for in spades with a buzzing atmosphere, great rustic lighting and lovely brown hues, and adorable little dishes such as mackerel tartare with horseradish, or calf's liver with onions and sage. Although many of the menu items are thoughtful and tasty, too few are genuinely adventurous, and there's a tendency towards weak flavours and slightly limp, insipid dishes. But the formula works well and is to be celebrated. The Italian wine list is enjoyable, though limited, and could be substantially improved. The wines are also available in carafes. Polpo almost immediately became a Soho institution and with good reason - it does informal, fun dining with real style.