Buonissimo

During a recent boozy lunch, I became embroiled in a discussion about the best ways to die. An odd one I know, and one I very much blame monsieur’s Leffe and Stella for, but still an interesting way to whittle down a Sunday afternoon, especially when the wonders of Google proved that we were not alone in this debate, and further proved that the human race is indeed a strange one. One websites top ten included Martyrdom (too deluded), being a hero (too overrated), and freak blimp accident (too 1920’s). Nether less, I was not impressed. There had to be better ways.

This boozy lunch did not take place in Bounissimo’s, though had it done, the ridiculous conversation recounted above may never have taken place. Bounissimo’s is an Italian restaurant in the affluent suburb of Harborne, serving the kind of hearty grub that Mamma back home in Rome would be proud of. Its a place big on flavours, and equally big on portions. One that lingers in the belly for days, and even longer in the memory.

Starters were better than mains, which were in turn better than desserts. A soup of pea, vermouth, and fennel had a great whack of aniseed knocked sideways by salty pancetta croutons. A deep fried goats cheese with chutney was pure cheese heaven, as was a generously sized main of baked linguine with ricotta, spinach, and parmesan cream. Here is the type of cooking that you would try to replicate at home, but never quite get right. The right side of unobtainable. Just how it should be.

It wasn’t all perfect. A great tasting main of chicken stuffed with spicy sausage was marred by the sausage meat being just warm, and an Italian take on lemon meringue lacked any real sharpness, but these are just quibbles. The fact is that Bounissomo’s is the sort of restaurant that every neighbourhood needs. One that will take you in from the cold, fill you up with goodness, and shake your hand on the way out before rolling you out the door when you are too stuffed to walk. This place could genuinely kill you with love. Now that has to be the best way to go.

Six of us sat down for an early meal at this attractive High Street restaurant on Friday evening. The evening didn't start too well as the first two of us were ushered up a narrow staircase to the first floor dining area which was cold and empty. Were they afraid that if they sat us on the (empty) ground floor we might deter other potential customers?

We ordered a Peroni and a spritzer which were swiftly supplied but the spritzer was not very chilled and there was no life in the soda water. A call for a replacement yielded nothing better except there were now ice cubes in the glass.

From this point onwards, everything was positive. We all ordered starters and main courses and the starters arrived shortly afterwards. Cozze Alla Trapanese Con Ceci (fresh mussels sautéed in garlic, chilli and olive oil), Sfogliatina Di Scamorza E Prosciutto (deep fried filo pastry parcels filled with Parma ham and scamorza cheese on a bed of sautéed mushroom, rocket and truffle oil) and Insalata Ai Gusti Di Montagna (balsamic honey dressed mixed leaf salad with dates, walnuts and feta cheese) all went down well.

Similarly the main course, with Fettina Di Manzo Alla Griglia Con Funghi E Vino Rosso (char grilled ‘fettina’ of steak, finished with mushrooms, onion and red wine jus), Stufato Di Selvaggina Con Fagioli E Salsicce (mixed game stew with cannellini beans and ‘award winning’ beef and bacon sausages, slow cooked in rich red wine and aromatic tomato sauce), Salmone Con Gamberetti E Porri (fresh salmon fillet cooked with prawns and leeks in a cream and tarragon sauce) and my choice - Pollo Ripieno Di Funghi E Provolone Piccante (free range chicken breast stuffed with oyster mushrooms and provolone piccante cheese, cooked in a cream sauce with peas and topped with crispy bacon) - delicious. Including two bottles of wine, four Peronis, a rather poor spritzer and automatic "discretionary" service charge the bill was £151. We thought this was fairly good value and we'll be back again.

Being an italian in the uk finding italian restaurants to eat without criticising too much is hard. People always ask to recommend and this one I would without hesitation. The menu is varied and reasonably priced. The service is polite and welcoming without being intrusive. The food is tasty,presented well and portions are plentiful. You must try the italian desert wine moscato with either an ice cream or cheese followed by an espresso and a liquor. From the outside it looks cafe like and small. seating is tight, but the whole experience more than makes up for this.

To be fair my wife and I were treated for a birthday present as guests and that’s what made the experience even more of a surprise.

buon appetito

Possibly the favorite Harborne High Street restaurant for my wife, Cynthia, a highly regarded spin-off from MY favourite, Valentino's. To me there are two problems - shortage of space (one ground floor room and one upstairs) and winebar decor (ie few soft furnishings and therefore high noise levels). (Visitors to Harborne have to park in the Waitrose across the road, whcih is risky at lunch time.) But foodwise this is an excellent restaurant with a great new menu every quarter and reasonable prices.