The Reef

It is sometimes difficult to remember that Houston, for all its Texas swagger and industrial power, sits on the Gulf of Mexico, one of the richest troves of seafood on the planet. The Reef brings this back to you with some of the finest ocean cuisine anywhere.

But first the wine list. We chose a Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, because the New Zealanders seem to have led the planet in mastering this difficult grape. But we could have chosen a hundred other fabulous whites, including a Meursault and both Montrachets. All reasonably priced.

We questioned the Redfish, because reports have this delicacy being fished out ever since New Orleans started blackening it. But the staff swore by its authenticity, and they were right. It was delicious sauteed in a clear, simple sauce.

Everything else was wonderful, including the service and the crowd. Our only caution would be the noise - this is a very popular and busy restaurant at all hours.