Fed up eating at the usual touristy eateries in Lisbon - god knows there are loads of them. We got a recommendation to visit a small restaurant in a little backstreet.

From the outside Alfaia is quite inauspicious - and does nothing to prepare you for the culinary delights within.

We had no trouble finding a table - although we were eating a little earlier than the locals (around 8pm) so it might be worth booking if you like to eat at local times!

The staff are extremely friendly and courteous (and best of all, they let you get on and enjoy your meal, while being on hand if you require anything).

The food was simply excellent - the best we had during our stay in Portugal. So good, in fact, that during our 5-day stay we ate there twice.

I was particularly taken with the mushrooms and bacon (cooked in garlic and cream) for starters. Their main courses are divine (I tend to go for meat dishes, while my wife prefers fish - both were fantastic) using many locally caught/sourced produce.

They have a good wine list - I can recommend the red Syrah (Casa Santos Lima 2004) as a good full-bodied wine.

Also don’t miss the chocolate mousse made with belgian chocolate.

The meal (appetisers, main course, desserts and wine) came to around €60 - pretty good value.

(and we got to ride the elevator tram home!)