The old cathedral of Lleida is one of Catalonia’s most important mediaeval monuments, incorporating both Romanesque and Gothic styles. The cathedral occupies a wonderfully impressive location high above the city, surrounded by the remains of the impressive Islamic fortress, La Suda, and the extensive 18th century fortifications.

It would be even more impressive if it had not been ransacked during the Wars of the Spanish Succession in 1707 and turned over for military use – an ignominy which lasted until 1940. The construction of the castle also saw the old town levelled (to build the fortress) and relocated at the foot of the hill. However, both the cloisters and interior have been restored and enough remains to get an impression of what the church must originally have been like, even if it is now surrounded only by the huge empty spaces of the fortress.

Begun in 1203, the building reflects the changes in styles until its completion (with the impressive bell tower) in 1431. It has some superb Romanesque doorways, with capitals incorporating elaborate human, animal and foliage motifs. Similar capitals can also be found in the nave, but the main body of the church is otherwise denuded of significant ornament. Some of the transept chapels retain some impressive vaulting, and some funerary effigies rescued from the church are on display. A number of windows are filled with ‘glass’ made from very thin pieces of marble – an amazing survival.

The cloisters are in rather better condition, and are on an impressive and dramatic scale, offering, as they do, splendid vistas over modern Lleida. The windows, although devoid of glass, are filled with stunning tracery, mostly from the decorated gothic period, and some from the 20th century restoration. The remains of 16-17th century classical ornament can also be seen on the cloister walls.

The most famous element of the cathedral is its tower, a splendid late-gothic octagonal structure, completed in 1431. You can climb the 238 steps to the top for stunning views over the city and the surrounding area, although be warned that the steps are both and winding and very narrow, and there is no hand rail. It contains a peal of 7 bells, two of which (named ‘Silvestra’ and ‘Monica’) date from the 15th century (the rest are 20th century replacements).

The entry ticket includes an audiovisual history of the cathedral, presented in one of the old chapels, there’s a small souvenir shop at the entrance and toilets built into another former chapel. There is step-free access throughout the main building, although some of the entrance ramps are rather steep.

Afterwards, you can walk around the ramparts of La Suda for more stunning views across the modern city.