Fischhaus

FISH ON FRIDAY

Upon the conclusion of our boat trip on the Rhine, our gracious hosts mentioned the topic of dinner, which certainly did not seem to be contraindicated. We had, after all, just alighted from a vessel at the Altstadt, which offers a host of possibilities.

“Fish?”, my friend mentioned.

Prevaricating somewhat, I gave the matter some consideration. I have eaten wonderful fish in Germany, albeit always close to where it came from. From sea bass and oysters in Hamburg - to amazing seafood on the Baltic and North Sea coasts - to fresh trout in the Black Forest.

What fish did they have to offer in Northrhine Westphalia? Hopefully nothing out of the Rhine, I thought. Intrigued (and with a little reservation) we agreed to give it a try.

Just a couple of minutes later we turned into the bustling lanes of the Altstadt and soon noticed that one of the places seemed to stand out by the roaring trade it was doing (it was, after all Friday evening).

A little sceptical about even finding a table, we were soon swooped up by one of the waitresses and deposited at one of the few free tables.

The service was outstandingly swift and friendly. Plenty of calls of “Are you being served?” Indeed they were charging around like a swarm of sharks who had just smelled blood and it’s been a while since I observed restaurant staff really running around at speed; quickly and efficiently.

Inside, the walls are tiled/marbled in a nice fishy and hygienic sort of way. The kitchen is semi-open which means that you can watch them cooking (at the risk of being trampled by enthusiastic staff) and more importantly get a real whiff of stimulate your appetite.

If you want to view what you fancy, you will find it displayed on ice.

We were rapidly sacramentised with bread (+aïoli) and wine: the civilised act of communion that should always precede religious study of the menu.

Our orders were handled with despatch and in what seemed no time at all, our food was ready. La contessa was delighted to get stuck into some ‘Maatjes’ herrings (not that easy to find in U.K.) and I ordered grilled sardines which tasted fresh and delicious. My friend opted for halibut with a chanterelle mushroom sauce (right in season) and pronounced the dish to be lacking nothing.

Why assume that eating fish “inland” is not the thing? I suppose it’s to do with the fact that in many rural regions of Germany, fish restaurants are less easy to find.
Dusseldorf ain’t rural and if I lived there, this place would see me often.

There are quite a few reports on Qype about this establishment. One German Qyper recorded his appreciation of the food there but was seriously upset by once finding a human hair in a dish. Well, I guess it can happen. Another considered the fish to be overfried in old fat. Not in our case. I am also surprised to note that several thought the service unfriendly. Unfriendly? Hectic maybe, but not unfriendly in my opinion.

Reverting to the matter of hygiene, permit me to digress nominally. My surreptitious glance was constantly attracted to this fine specimen,

wondering whether it tasted better grilled or finely sliced into carpaccio? Was it some local speciality? An awesome mutation from the Rhine caused by the Swiss pouring in their pharmaceutical waste? Our friends thought that it was something to do with flies. An enquiry with the staff revealed that the water in the bag magnified movement and scared flies off, which was confirmed here: http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/348595 I just wonder what these are called? Dipteral Ocular Acceleration Devices? Or just plastic bags? Suggestions welcomed.

4 stars. Not outstanding, but very, very good.