If San Francisco has a French Quarter, then Belden Place is its heart. It’s not very large, but it has quite the concentration of Eurocentric restaurants, and the plentiful outdoor seating makes it the obvious choice for someone in San Francisco seeking a bit of Continental flair.

Anchoring the entry end of Belden Place is Cafe Bastille, and it is what it is: French bistro fare. It’s fairly solid, and other than the escargots, there aren’t any menu items that would wow anyone. In fact, the service can be rather curt, and - what the hell - their steaks don’t come with frites!

So why do I like it? Because it’s so Parisian. And I don’t mean like the tourist-littered Cafe Bastille at the actual Place de la Bastille. I mean in the attitude.

I’ll let you in on a little secret… Speak French. I know a place shouldn’t be given any sort of merit for elitist shenanigans like that, but it’s no different than ordering off-menu at a Chinese restaurant where only the locals are in the know.

Practiquez votre francais (or come with some French friends) and magically, the chef is more than happy to slice up and fry a potato to go with your steak. Politely commandez en leur langue, and all of a sudden, the service is attentive and accommodating.

Yeah, maybe it’s wrong by American service standards. But I feel it’s just one of those things that makes Cafe Bastille feel more like being in Paris than merely a few blocks down from the French consulate. Of course, maybe it’s the cloud of smoke on the terrasse.