Here we are talking about a restaurant that maybe from the outside you would not consider. But open the door and you are met with a wall of sound from excited diners, an interior crammed with gaily decorated tables, walls abounding with wines on display and pictures, fresh flowers everywhere, and the aromas of fresh food. All beneath a spectacular wood-vaulted ceiling.

Toni’s is a numero uno with the locals, so be absolutely sure to book, as far in advance as possible. Ask for a table in the front part of the restaurant. The menu is written on chalkboards and changes regularly, though a few favourites are always in place, such as the Baccala (salted cod), Tagliatelle with Duck, and Hunter’s Rabbit with Olives. The wines are displayed in every possible location: just select one or ask the obliging waiters to recommend something - they will never push you on to anything expensive.

And the ‘Spin’ bit? It is said to be derived from Spina, meaning the spine of the codfish. But a waiter gave me a much more interesting account of the origin, that I cannot publish here - you’ll have to go for yourself to find out!