Formerly a convent, Santa María de Conxo has been transformed into a psychiatric hospital. This occurred in the 19th century, when the religious order was transferred to Poio. That may sound like a strange place to visit, but it is full of historical and cultural references for locals in Santiago de Compostela and for many Galicians. The hospital in fact was one of the earliest of its types and, it appears, was first used for university professors in need of mental treatment.

As a religious site, the convent dates from the time of Gelmírez and the early part of the 12th century, although much of the visible part is from the 18th century. The cloister is Romanesque style and is visited by requesting entrance at the reception desk of the hospital. The church is 17th century. There is a sculpture by Gregorio Fernández and the hospital surprisingly displays a large painting by Julia Minguillón, known during the Franco period and one of the more important female artists of early 20th century Spain.

Conxo is a barrio on the edge of Santiago that has grown up and lost its original appeal, but its name remains. Inmates have occasionally become famous for their artistic activities in the center of the city - either playing musical instruments of some sort, or showing drawing talents off on street walls. It was also the site for the fifth and last novel of major writer Rosalía de Castro (1837-1885), El primer loco (The First Madman, 1881). The novel is full of historical and political innuendoes and the setting described in it is virtually impossible to find now, but one can use one’s imagination. And as always, a church in Galicia offers a space for reflection of any sort, spiritual or other. One really can do a course in art history wandering through some of the less spectacular and less touristic sites. Often, too, a conversation with the man or woman in charge of doors or cleaning can reveal some curious lore…