Zwiebelfisch

This is the worst plave I have ever visited in Berlin by a long, long way. Food was cooked in a microwave and served cold and tasteless. The staff were rude and unfriendly. Do not go here there are plenty of other reasonably priced cafe’s and restaurants around the square that offer better service and food.

With the possible exception of the late JFK, Berliner(s) are well-known for their subtle gob – the ‘Berliner Schnauze’. They have always had a pleasant accent, a unique and healthily sceptical attitude (even during darker days) and a very swift and amusing wit which is great fun to encounter.

The best places to enjoy this are in the traditional Berliner ‘Kneipen’ (boozers) and here, ‘Zwiebelfisch’ is no exception. It is situated on Savignyplatz not far from the Zoo station, it opens at midday and closes around 6 a.m. Inconsiderately, hot food is not served after 3 a.m. or so. ;-) Zwiebelfisch, incidentally, is an old printing expression meaning a letter printed in the wrong font. Upon entering, we noticed that there were a few fags alight, despite the recent smoking ban. Upon asking the landlady whether smoking was permitted, we were told “Most certainly not!”. She went on to say “…but every other bugger does, so you had better make sure I don’t see you!”

It’s a good place to start up/pass through/end up and attracts an interesting clientele of journalists, thinkers, drinkers, chatters, and nighthawks. Bit like a Soho or Fleet Street pub in London.

We were there a couple of times with a crew of professional colleagues in May 2008. The decor is fun and interesting. As a European, I was delighted to enjoy genuine Budweiser on draught (the Czech ‘Budvar’ brand, rather than its appalling U.S. relative of the same name). As a born Scot, I was pleased to see Laphroaig among the scotches and with West Country family links, cider was an unusual encounter in a German pub. I didn’t eat there, but it looked like hale and hearty good-value fare.

On one evening, there was a bunch of Icelanders who had imbibed to the extent of intoxication and thereafter found their way to some remote planet, which sounded excruciatingly noisy. The landlady – a great character – took them to task about this by shouting: “Will you please shut up! If not for the benefit of the other guests, then please for the benefit of my fucking ears!”

Aforesaid lady saw us off in style (no we were not being ejected!)

As a pub and for the fun factor – 5 stars.