Antica Trattoria Tre Torri

Opened over 20 years ago and still under the same management, the '3 Towers’ is little more than a hole in the wall but provides a memorable dining experience.

Indoors, there are barely two dozen covers, crammed back-to-back, the larger tables with bench seating. Rustic is the word. The two waitresses strain to get past their diners. So contact with your fellow beings here is unavoidable. It all adds to the fun and enjoyment. Marissa will tell you what’s good on the night, though it is all good, really. Other diners may add their own advice. Locals want to know who you are; visitors swap info in broken Italian. The general clamour is reminiscent of an unruly school dinner hall.

Outdoors, they have attempted expansion via a plastic tent which they call the “Giardino”. Garden it is not! No atmosphere, so don’t go there. It’s indoors or niente.

Two chefs appear to be joined at the hip as they work in full view next to the diners in the small kitchen. They might even shout out to ask you how you want it done. They look on proudly as you tuck in. There is no hiding place in the Tre Torri.

There’s a choice of 6 Antipasti 8 euros, 4 Primi 8 euros, and 8 Secondi @ 10-12 euros. Desserts are 4 euros. A short but comprehensive Wine List ranges from 12 euros for the local Valcalepio up to 55 euros for a blockbusting Amarone. The first Grappe cost 2,50; the second lot came free.

Needless to say, the dishes are all typical Bergamascan, with Casoncelli, Risotto, Polenta, Porcini, Salsicce, Rabbit, Donkey and Gnocchi all featuring. Pasta is hand-made. Polenta is lovingly stirred to longterm perfection. A Stinco di Maiale was perhaps the highlight for me. Others ordered a double helping of the Casoncelli, which could be heard sizzling as they were removed from the oven two metres away.

All this conviviality led to one of our Party ordering the Amarone to accompany an enormous communal plate of cheeses. The bottle in question had been untouched on a remote corner top shelf of the room for a long time, and a fellow diner had to climb up and get it down for Marissa. It’s that kind of place - one for all and all for one.