I would also add, take some time to look at the altar screen. It is a Victorian copy of the original 14th century one and is staggeringly beautiful - a stunning filigree of lacework in stone. Winchester is definitely my favourite cathedral out of all those I have seen. I like its groundedness (if there is such a word) and still has an atmosphere of prayer, unlike many of the great cathedrals.

This is an impressive and educational cathedral to visit. It’s huge and full of history. The many stages of its architecture, from Norman to medieval gothic to more modern supporting work, are apparent. It’s got art both ancient and modern. It has towers and crypts. It has connections to the Arthurian legends, and was the capital of England in the middle ages. It has ancient books and the tomb of Jane Austen. We timed it just right to join one of the guided tours, and so felt we really got our money’s worth (only a fiver). It’s a worthy visit.

Winchester is one of my favourite places to take foreign visitors. It’s easily accessible and makes a perfect day out from London in summer.

It’s a historic place: it was the capital of Wessex and then of England until Norman Conquest in 1066. Not surprising then, that a large cathedral was built here around 648 AD. All that remains of this is its foundations, clearly marked next to the present building.

And what a building that is. At 556ft (170m) the longest mediaeval cathedral in Europe, it illustrates the perfectly the changing style from the Norman Romanesque from its building in 1079, through high gothic to the perpendicular of the rebuilt west front and nave of 1400. There are several impressive chantry chapels and a beautiful 13th century retro choir. Richard I was crowned here in 1194, and Henry IV (1401) and Queen Mary (1554) were both married here.

But it is also full of other points of interest: the graves of Jane Austen, William II, and the Saxon kings Egbert, Ethelwulf and the Danish Canute; mediaeval stained glass and frescoes; pre-Raphaelite glass from Burne-Jones; and in the ancient library, the Winchester Bible, one of the pre-eminent mediaeval illuminated books in Europe.

The area around the cathedral is also delightful for a walk, and the award-winning refectory is a good place to eat. My favourite iwalk is along the lovely River Itchen to the church of Saint Cross (see separate entry). On a high summer’s day, it’s a perfect way to spend an afternoon.

Modified: 03-10-2007