This hip bistro is the focal point for a series of lesser bars, lounges, and entertainment venues that all flourish, in a congenially cooperative way, within the same (also recommended) hotel. The guiding light here (or at least the éminence grise) is ABBA member Benny Andersson, whose reflected glory permeates the spirit of much of this place. Since the bistro is on the hotel’s second floor, and since there’s a long and narrow balcony on which tables are situated during clement weather, diners can look down on one of the most popular and animated series of boccie ball games in Sweden.

The menu presented a tossup between one of the freshest and most tantalizing Caesar salads made in Stockholm and toast Skagen, which isn’t really toast at all, but a piled-high mound of shrimp flavored with dill. Other options were tempting, too. The grilled chicken was so tasty and perfectly flavored that it didn’t need to be gussied up with sauce, and went well with Swedish herring and endless rounds of aquavit. More adventurous palates opted for the carpaccio of beef or seasonal filet of reindeer with fresh chanterelles and blackberries.