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Compliment michcov (24-06-2007) 4

A recent refurbishment has transformed this Indian restaurant in Clapham Junction into a classy, modern local. Cream linen tablecloths and a token fresh flower decorate each table; skylights and modern art picture frames give the small, narrow restaurant a contemporary touch.

Their attempts to modernise have been a huge improvement, yet as we ate, we were mesmerised by highlights from a 70’s Bollywood classic on a huge plasma screen beside us, which only seemed to have two protagonists. As we watched the screen lovers repeatedly run across tulip fields into each others arms in slow motion, I couldn’t help but think that this, along with the characterless cabaret background music, gave the place a whiff of old school, juxtaposed by the attempts of a new modern look.

The excessively extensive menu features a large section of chef recommendations, amongst which was my ‘Chicken Manchurian’ (£6.95), a rich, medium-dry chicken (or lamb) tandoori curry, medium spiced, cooked in a clay oven and garnished with fresh coriander. My curry was complimented by the well chosen side orders of ‘Saag Aloo’, dark spinach and potato, abundant with spices; a somewhat smokey lentil dish, ‘Tarka Dall’, as well as ‘Bhindi Bhajee’ – perfectly cooked with a garlic undertone (all £2.95). This vast array of colourful Indian/Bangladeshi specialites (all had been recommended to us by the owner) was soaked up with probably the best naan bread I have ever tasted – soft and light, thinly smothered with garlic butter – which the owner was especially proud of and assured us was a secret recipe.

Staff were friendly and helpful and most diners seemed to be regulars – always a good sign. The place was completely booked up on the (Thursday) night, so reservations are recommended. All in all, a pleasant Indian, with a good feel to it - classier than most, and a great local to have.

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