At 3,718m (12,198ft ), Teide is the highest point in Spanish territory, and (by volume) the world’s third largest active volcano. Although there are plenty of higher mountains in the Alps and elsewhere in Africa, it is one of the very few of this height anywhere in the world where you can see straight down to sea level from the summit, and really appreciate just how high up you are. It’s also one of the few that you can ascend relatively straightforwardly without being a mountaineer.

The summit itself is amazing, with a crater about 100m across, bright yellow from sulphur deposits, and – scarily – warm to the touch. White, acrid, sulphurous fumes gently rise from the surface. On one side, there is a vertiginous drop, which the Spanish authorities have thoughtfully marked off with a rather flimsy rope. But all around, the views, across the Canary Island archipelago and the bizarre volcanic landscape, are truly breathtaking. The summit itself, on the rim of the crater, is just about big enough for one person to sit on. (Standing was out of the question in the wind when we went!). However you get there, it feels like a real achievement.

Now the practicalities. There’s a road, with a sparse bus service, to the caldera of Las Cañadas, which brings you up to 2,350m (7,700 ft), from where you have a number of options. Tour coaches also run from the southern resorts to the lower cable-car station. (The web-site gives excellent information).

For the serious – and very fit – mountain walker, it’s a very strenuous but uncomplicated climb up a good path to the Summit from the El Portillo bar. Few can manage a return trip in a day, but there’s a refuge (Refugio de Altavista) at 3,270m (10,725ft) which allows you to break the ascent, and acclimatise to the altitude before finishing it off the day after. An alternative is to climb in one go, and descend via the cable-car (teleférico). Booking a place at the Refugio is absolutely essential, as is taking your own water. (The refugio is also not always open, so check in advance). It also goes without saying that, at this altitude, weather planning, wearing appropriate clothing and taking appropriate provisions are all essential. Be aware, too, of the possibility of altitude sickness.

A much easier and more feasible alternative for most people is to take the bus or drive to the cable car station (at 2,356m), and ascend to 3,555m in just ten minutes. It’s a fantastic ride, and around the upper station there are fairly straightforward walks with fantastic views. There’s even a small bar, although the choice of food and drink is pretty basic. When we went (around mid-May) there was still snow on the ground in patches, a 60km/h wind and dazzling sun. As you’d expect, the queues for the cable car can be formidable, and if you go later in the day make sure you don’t miss the last one down.

From the upper cable-car station, the walk to the summit is another 160m (500ft) or so. It takes about 20 minutes, on a very good path, much of it with rough stone steps. If you come up via the cable car, the altitude really hits you – it’s like walking in lead boots. Humiliatingly, I was overtaken by a cheerful 75-year old Spaniard, who apparently did the climb regularly!

If you've taken the cable-car, a jumper and windproof jacket, gloves and sunscreen are still essentials. Even in May, the wind-chill can reduce the temperature close to freezing. The cable car does not run in bad or windy weather, even in summer, so check the forecast before you set off. Also, people with certain heart and chest problems are advised not to ascend, given that the air is thin enough to cause altitude sickness and related problems, and ascending rapidly exacerbates the effect.

If you want to climb up to the summit – however you get there – you’ll need a permit to go beyond the upper cable car station, as they limit numbers to preserve the unique habitat. This can be purchased only by applying in person, in advance, at the Teide National Park office in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, at Emilio Calzadilla 5, 4th floor. (Take a photocopy of your passport with you). The permit is valid for a specific day.

Whatever type of holiday you have on Tenerife, in my view a trip to Teide is a must: the experience is worth sacrificing just one day on the beach!