Hunan consistently serves up a feast!

No need to look at the menu… just tell them what you don’t eat/like, if you have any allergies or if you really fancy eating something, and leave it to them to keep bringing you surprise after surprise… until you’re full.

You should leave the place feeling completely indulged.

Most Chinese restaurants in Europe serve Cantonese food - the food of Southern China and Hong Kong - and although generally light and fresh, it can also be rather bland. Other regions of China feature more robust and spicy dishes . particularly the Sichuan and Hunanese styles. Hunan is an outstanding example of the latter and an entertaining experience as well. We began our evening with a glass of champagne at Carole Bamford's Dayleford Organic deli-cafe opposite the restaurant and arrived at Hunan smartly on time, as the owner, Mr Peng, is known to chew his guests up for breaches of etiquette. In fact he wasn't in attendance the night we went, but his son, who maintains his father's old-fashioned courtesy, was.

As recommended, we didn't ask for a menu, but said that we would leave it to him to bring us whatever he wished, save only for one of the party prefering to have vegetarian dishes. This is also to be recommended since they excel at vegetarian cooking and as all dishes can be shared, all can try everything. A eight-course banquet followed that was some of the best Chinese food I have ever had - even in China.

Fortunately somewhat 'nouvelle' in portion and style, the dishes flowed smoothly one by one (rather than being piled up on the table all at once) from our attentive waitress with the spicing light and interesting and never fierce. Superb lamb, minced pork, salmon and seabream rolled together, double cooked pork, crunchy tofu and superbly sauced vegetables made for an outstanding meal. There was a full wine list, and Mr Peng is known to be an expert, but we washed the meal down with tea, the Chinese way.

The room is quite small and simply decorated with paintings of Chinese emperors and empresses and the atmosphere more French than Chinese, so don't go for a noisy convivial evening; just appreciate the superlative cooking and courtesy. Young Mr Peng shook our hands on leaving and wished us to return, which we certainly will.