Locanda Locatelli

READ THE BOOK, SEE THE MOVIE, GET THE T-SHIRT.

We had purchased Locatelli’s book and seen him on the TV: all that was now needed was to ‘get the T-shirt’, figuratively speaking.

La contessa had been through a bit of a rough time healthwise and needed to go into London upon offical business with my accompaniment. Mindful of the L’Oréal slogan “Because you’re worth it”, aware of her gastronomic prefences and commensurate with her physical need to add a little tonnage, I somewhat exuberantly booked a lunchtime table at the Michelin-starred Locanda.

Immediately upon entry, we were warmly cosseted in the way that the more positive entries here describe. “No mobile phones please” (hence no photographs), no boringly blinged-up and screeching women, nor rumbling and boorishly-bellowing blokes; just serious diners in an elegant and pleasant environment.

We were seated and immediately got outside a glass of prosecco while studying the small print (in fact they publish their menu online daily). While contently nibbling the breadsticks that have also been mentioned otherwhere, we reflected that the bread that follows with the olive oil is also worthy of more than a mention in despatches here.

We then made our decisions:

Hers: Insalata di carciofi e Parmigiano Reggiano
(Salad of raw artichokes and Parmigiano, oil and lemon)
His: Bresaola di manzo al caprino
(Cured beef with goat’s cheese dressing)

While la contessa lustfully beamed her way through the artichokes, I savoured the wonderfully fresh taste of the bresaola and longingly thought of the clear Alpine air of Courmayeur or wherever this beautiful kit had come from.

I had already made my wine selection, which was a noble Piedmontese Freisa- a very tannin-rich cousin of the Nebbiolo grape and the like of which one seldom encounters in the UK. I proposed a toast to a nice lady I know in Berlin who translated one of the proprietor’s books into German.

In between our private chitchat and discussing the food, I mischievously let my attention wander to the next table, where a ̶m̶̶o̶̶n̶̶o̶̶t̶̶o̶̶n̶̶o̶̶u̶̶s̶̶ ̶̶b̶̶o̶̶r̶̶e̶̶ high-powered businessman was trying to sell a ̶f̶̶a̶̶t̶̶ ̶̶m̶̶a̶̶n̶ gentleman of substance some type of ‘networked solution’. I reflected upon the fact that since my days in marketing, little had changed in the basic rules of salesmanship and that this guy was doing it all wrong. La contessa gracefully accepted my comments and the ̶f̶̶a̶̶t̶̶ ̶̶m̶̶a̶̶n̶ gentleman of substance devoted his attention to his lunch, which did not surprise me.

We were then delighted to take delivery of her:

Linguine all’ astice
(Linguine with lobster, tomato, garlic and chilli)

and my:

Rognone di vitello, lenticchie e puré di patate
(Pan fried calf’s kidneys, mashed potato and lentils).

I have eaten kidneys in many places but have never been asked to indicate how I would like them cooked. In confusion, I replied “medium “ and so it was that the deed was done. For the first time ever, I enjoyed kidneys without their traditional hint of bodily waste fluid and cooked in a sauce that I can only describe as blissfully appealing. If I were to find fault in any way, it would be in terms of misinformation, since the “mashed potatoes” were not mashed per se but rather creamed, which was wonderful since I prefer my spuds that way.

With a purring, lobsterised contessa and equally content self, we noticed with amusement that the fat man had still not ‘risen to the bait’, but was sensibly confining his dialogue to his plate. We decided to inspect the “dolci”.

We both went for Selezione di gelati e sorbetti which sounds, looks and tastes better than ‘assortment of ice cream’. Upon asking the waiter what one of the dainty sweets served with our coffee was, he immediately packed a few of these tidbits into a small box for later consumption.

It was with a feeling of immense contentment that we eventually emerged and oozed off towards the railway station.

This place is not inexpensive when you add the wine, but it is worth it, particularly when you consider that there are so many places in Central London that claim the Earth and cost it, but do not really deliver.

Fantastic food and atmosphere, we actually ate here twice during our stay, fresh, vibrant and colourful food. Relaxed and sociable.

Locanda Locatelli oozes money. The staff, the decor and the clientele. They all scream, in a modest understated way, that if you have to ask the price of anything, you shouldn’t be here. Now beating up a restaurant on Portland Square, next to Little Arabia and just up from hedgefund-land, for its pricing might feel a tad unnecessary. It’s like attacking the child infused atmosphere of a Harvester during the middle of the summer holidays or as someone less verbose than I would put it, like shooting fish in a barrel. That being said, I feel it’s important to make the point, as unless price is entirely and utterly irrelevant to you, pricing this steep can easily get in the way of even a very good meal.

Baccala’ Mantecato, that Venetian treat of salt cod blended with olive oil to a smooth paste with the lightest hint of the sea came with aromatic pomodoro tomatoes, watercress and a crumble of tasty polenta crisp. A rustic winter classic, scoffed by the ton as a way of getting the most out of the preserved fish in leaner months. A beautiful and expansive starter with tons of contrasting flavour, followed a vast and interesting breadbasket, opening well, but at £14.50 a plate, enough to give all but the most homesick of Venetians a moment’s pause.

We both went for a pasta course as our main, my guest sampling the Strozzapreti pasta, a rougly rolled penne style ideal for holding a thicker tomato sauce full of olive and spicy soft n’duja salami. I went for perfectly cooked risotto over, slightly salty, duck ragu, served with a handful of girolles. It was good ribsticking fare, the kind that you’d expect at any trattoria across the Italian countryside, but with both at over £20 a plate when you pay the main course ‘supplement’, a little (or a lotto) on the steep side. The carne and pesci selections are also often recommended by regulars, small selections of pan fried or char grilled fresh fish and meats with simple accompaniments.

As you’d expect, the wine list is aimed at the high end, but there are a number of reasonable surprises and it’s telling that they’ve won a number of awards for the long, well thought out (predominently Italian) list. It’s not just the obvious regions they cover, we went for a Nero Di Troia from unfashionable Puglia in the South, it’s bright blackberry and prune notes with only a hint of tannin balancing perfectly against the rustic tomato and meat sauces. You’ll find a few below fifty a bottle, but you have to look hard.

Despite the vast number of night clad servers, roaming and floating between the soft white clad tables and gold banquettes like exclusive, sleek and designed water taxis through the Venetian canals, the attention to detail was mixed at best. The water server seemingly over-compensated, leaning across us to refill after every gulp of (not offered until asked for) tap, for the stingy smear of Sicilian extra virgin, poured, providenced but never topped up and the long, long wait to get the bill. Minor quibbles sure, but, as with the food itself, the caveat has to be that you expect better for the price.

I was taken here by a client yesterday.

It is a michelin starred restaurant.

I enjoyed three amazing course which included veal ravioli, salt baked sea bass and chocolate fondant. If you are looking for a romantic setting then this is the place to take a loved one or someone you wan to impress.

The waiters are extremely attentive.

Costly but well worth it's star!

We ate here on Sunday and had a lovely meal. The problem is the prices- £19.50 for a "primo" of scampi linguine which was great but I've had similar plates in Italy for 9 Euros! The other "primo" was equally tasty- a "malfatti" filled with potato and mint and an excellent sweet pepper sauce. Delicate and beautifully al dente.
The main courses were equally good. We had the rabbit and veal fillet dishes which were both top drawer. Unfortunately they were both nearly £30. We were advised well by the sommelier and had some excellent glasses of wine to accompany our dishes. The dessert, a "degustazione di cioccolata" had some wonderful elements but was not all of the highest standard.
Special praise must go to the waiters who looked after us brilliantly and ensured that the meal was relaxed and not too starchily formal whilst still providing excellent attentive service.
I think the problem may be that I really know Italian cooking well and am used to eating a meal of similar quality for 50 Euros per head. It is in Mayfair so I really shouldn't have these expectations. Great food (but quite simple) and great service but it won't blow you away!

I was really impressed with Locanda Locatelli. The service was immaculate and the food fabulous - expensive but definitely worth it for a special occasion.

I’ve been hoping to eat at Locanda Locatelli for years now, and my wife’s birthday gave me the perfect excuse to finally get there (and I get to look generous and thoughtful at the same time - bonus!).

Thankfully the experience more than lived up to my expectations and we had a great meal.

We started off with some ludicrously long and tasty breadsticks and a nicely put together gin and tonic while trying to make a choice from the menu. Eventually I went for the braciole (very much like carpaccio) with some truffle oil drizzled over it and devoured on top of some of the brilliant home made bread we were given, while my wife had the salad of baby spinach, smoked ricotta, red onions and walnut which was tasty enough for me to eat a couple of forkfuls myself.

For the main I went for the sea bass in salt and herb crust, which I’ll say was the least impressive part of the whole meal but was still perfectly cooked and really tasty. Maybe I was a bit disappointed because the roast rabbit leg, polenta and parma ham which was being eaten across the table from me looked so damn good that I had a touch of diner’s envy.

That feeling soon disappeared though as soon as my selection of Italian cheese turned up. While my wife tucked into her Amalfi lemon Eton mess I got to work on eight cheeses, some more of that amazing bread, and eight different honeys to accompany the cheese!

While the service dropped off a little as the restaurant got busier, we never felt rushed, and the staff were brilliant in explaining the dishes and recommending wine. The lighting and the decor all go to making this a really great 'date restaurant’ and while it is expensive (roughly a tenner for the starters and £25 for the mains) the food is bordering on exquisite and worth every penny if you have a bit of cash to splash.

I was really looking foward to eating in this place, i work just round the corner, pass it every day and was hoping good things would amass.

Oh how wrong I could be. I have NEVER experienced such awful service in my life, the staff were rude, unhelpful and obnoxious, we had an awful experience and they tried absoloutely nothing to put it right.
The whole experience stunk of pretentiousness.
We actually walked out - something i think even the staff were a bit shocked about - you pay for the experience, and i certainly would not spend another penny in this place.

If you want michelen starred food there are tons of places in London which are better than this - for better service you could probably try the KFC around the corner.

Certainly not recommended.

Highly recommend this restaurant but it is expensive, so best saved for a special occasion.

Not your average italian restaurant (don’t expect pizza and lots of pasta). Risotto, some pasta dishes, fish and game.

Everything we ordered was delicious and perfectly executed. The home-made bread basket was divine and the complimentary amouse bouche was wonderful too. We left here absolutely full but wanting more.

Good wine list (not many cheaper bottles though). Service, excellent.

It takes all sorts to make a world, but this restaurant seems to appeal mostly to the very rich denizens of Edgware Road and environs. The food is not memorable, and the beigeness of the decor is rather oppressive. Also pricey!

Went for lunch here today and was pleasantly impressed without it being out of this world. The place was heaving and almost full, so I’d advise booking if you wish to go, even at lunchtime.
Food was very well presented and service was very professional and mostly very good (the waiting staff seem to be mostly very authentic Italian, so there were a couple of small mix-ups, such as a decaf expresso instead of a double expresso, that sort of thing!)
All-in-all, I had a very pleasant afternoon there and all things on the menu there (there were four of us) being very good without being amazing. As Italian restaurants go, I’d say Quiranale, near the Houses of Parliament, is just as good, but this is a solid restaurant that didn’t disappoint.

Locanda Locatelli is part of the the Churchill Hotel Group,but it seems to do have a mind of its own and does its own thing.Its very smart,swanky tastefully decorated with wood heather and spotlights.
It is virtually impossible to get in without a booking and you usually have to wait months because its always busy. Locatelli is a celebrity chef but the his reputation is based on and continues to grow because he uses the finest ingredients and marries them up with a traditional style of Italian cooking.
After having consumed the anti-pasta of delicate Langoustines in a Garlic and Chilli sauce with Pappardelle,Broad- Beans in Tomatoe sauce,we started on the mains . Having chosen the chargrilled rolled Pork it was nice to find that it was bursting with herbs and served with deep-fried Courgettes in batter. We also had a dish of grilled Tuna with Rocket Salad simply served with a wedge of Lemon,all this enhanced the flavours of the raw ingredients with a subtlety which was pleasent to taste. The side orders consisted of roast potatoes pungently infused with sprigs of Rosemary and the Foccacia and breadsticks were pronounced excellent.
A chocolate tasting dessert combined with a Parfait ice-cream gave the Amadei dish all the finesse it deserved.Perfect Vanilla Pannacotta with Berries,Redfruit sauce and the Stracciatella(Chocolate Chips) ice-cream on a biscuit base hit the right spots in the mouth. Coffee was as good as you would expect and came with a Chocolate Truffle and an outstandingly good Amaretto. Other than the Champagne the wine list is all Italian and the whites and reds are thoughtfully arranged by region and feature well know growers like Guia Antinori. Wine by the glass is good value at 3.50 or there abouts.