Although Bloomsday has already summed it up this is a must see museum. I have to admit I lean more to Duchamp than Picasso but that said I make it a point to spend a day here as often as possible it is a wonderful entry point into the life of an amazing artist.

This is my favorite museum in Paris. I love the location in the Hotel Sale in the Marais, my favorite neighborhood in all of Paris. Many people thought it strange that the greatest artist of the 20th century should find his life’s work housed in a palace that dates from the time of Louis XIV, I disagree. Nothing much remains in the interior of the building except the beautiful light-colored stone, the grand staircase, and all that glorious natural light. Seems like the perfect blank canvas on which to place the broad spectrum of the great master’s artwork. Also, the benches, chandeliers, railing, and so forth were all commissioned to be designed by Diego Giacometti, brother of Alberto Giacometti, the sculptor. What a brilliant choice that was for creating the perfect bridge between the building and the art itself. It’s a real testament to the design that I never even thought about those things while I was in the building, they just exist naturally with the art as they should.

I went early, first thing in the morning in fact, and was literally the first person in the museum. Walking through the empty, stone rooms and getting to sit with this great artist’s work was the highlight of all my many museum trips on this particular visit to Paris (Fall 2006). We were fortunate enough to be at the museum while this exhibit was installed: Heinz Berggruen’s Private Collection, which was spectacular beyond words. Even so, the museum’s own collection of early Picasso works, many I had never even heard of, is well worth the visit alone. The sketches and very early trial proofs of many of his great masterpieces were quite insightful. Also, I don’t think I’ve seen a better installation of Picasso sculptures. This is the where the space really makes the experience. The dark sculpture bathed in natural sunlight in a completely neutral and almost empty room was just stunning. I can’t really do justice to the experience, but it was one of those times I found I needed to sit down in the room to just be with the art. It was that impressive.

You don’t have to be a Picasso lover to appreciate this museum, but I am sure it helps. If nothing else, you’ll find yourself in the grooviest and nicest neighborhood in all of Paris. Enjoy!