QYPE*

A flawless lunch on St Valentine's Day in this seriously done-over old favourite has laid to rest my fears. Having been here many times in the past, I was concerned at reports that the new American proprietor (who also owns a number of other outlets in Greenwich and at the O2) had removed some of its charm. True, the lovely Victorian atmosphere exists now mostly in the bar and all the old booths have gone (so not so perfect for romantic dates), but a fire still welcomes you and even more period paintings crowd the walls. The dining areas have been opened up and a new private room added from the antique shop which used to be next door, so it's much bigger. Some have complained about the noise in a crowded dining room, but this lunchtime it was quiet and cosy - and a bonus; the chairs (some nice big carvers) are very comfortable. We chose the more expensive of the set menu lunches (£27 for two courses) and were delighted by succulent scallops and well-sauced mussels followed by a good sea-bass and a quite delicious chantarelle and squash risotto. Service was friendly and probably Polish. We chose the remarkable value Chilean El Grano Carmenere red which is soft and fruity and only £18 (also a favourite at The Thomas Lord qv) followed by a dessert wine and a calvados before heading out again to shop at the remarkable Nauticalia, which sells superlative gear for boats and which describes itself as 'The First Shop in the World' for its position beside the meridian.