QYPE*

Malta is one of the world's pre-eminent locations for prehistory: it contains Europe's most outstanding collection of megalithic monuments and temples, dating back as far as 3600 BC, and includes the world's oldest known built structures.

For me, best of the lot is the underground temple and burial complex at Hal Saflieni. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most impressive monuments of the ancient world. It's a huge, 500 sq m labyrinth of underground chambers, carved out of the solid rock, but incorporating the architectural forms of the megaliths on the surface: the effect is a sort of vast, underground Stonehenge. It is unique in the world, and visiting it is an amazing, almost profound experience.

As ever with sites this old, there's a degree of mystery as to who constructed it and why, but the evidence points to neolithic farmers building it between 3600 and 2500 BC, initially as a temple and then as a necropolis - a large number of burials certainly took place here. It includes delicate wall paintings, which incorporate Europe's earliest abstract art. It was still being built when it was abandoned - one of the mysteries is that the culture that built it seemingly disappeared without trace around 2500BC.

If you want to visit, you need to be organised but, trust me, it's worth it. The micro-climate in the chambers, together with the complex series of passageways, means that visitors are restricted to small guided tour groups, and total visitor numbers are restricted to just 80 a day. It therefore books up well in advance, especially in peak season - you should aim to book, as a minimum, at least TWO MONTHS before your planned visit.

Finding the entrance can also be a bit of a challenge, as it's located in an anonymous side street in the community of Paola, and it is not particularly well signed. Aim to arrive in plenty of time - they may not be able to accommodate you on a later tour if you miss your slot.

The site is not accessible for wheelchair users.